Here's another link to the date deciphering info:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/olympustrip35/discuss/72157594537718351/

People seem to be missing it so here is the key info:
The code consists of 3 characters:
1st Japanese character or letter (in later models) signifying the assembly plant.
2nd number representing the last digit of the year of assembly
(e.g. 5 = 1975, 0 = 1980).
3rd number or letter representing the month of assembly,
1-9 for Jan-Sep, X, Y, Z for Oct-Dec.
for example; N1Y = November 1971

Of course the TRIP 35 was manufactured between 1967 and 1984, so if you are unsure if you have a 1968 or 1978 model, the chrome shutter button is the earlier and the black the later.

How do I find out when my Trip was manufactured?

This information was provided by "Mairead" via the forum on my website olympus-trip.co.uk. There is an explanation of what to do and how the code is deciphered on - flickr.com but I thought some pictures would help to explain how to do it. Don't be worried about removing the pressure plate. Just slide it inwards carefully with your nail as shown until it comes free from one side, then rotate it to reveal the printed code. It is replaced just as easily in the same way.

The code can be seen here. H92 = February 1979. I had thought we had bought the camera in 1978 but this proves that my memory is fading!

The Trip saves the day - again

Just before going off to Lesvos - the third largest Greek island - for a two week holiday in September, my Nikon Coolpix 5400 started doing some strange things. When reviewing the pictures it would suddenly start scrolling through the pictures and then it was not possible to return to shooting mode or turn the camera off. I contacted Nikon and they told me to remove the battery for 24 hours and this should reset it. This worked but the fault soon raised its ugly head again. There was no alternative but to return the camera to Nikon, which I did just before we left for our holiday.

So, my wife took her Olympus Mju Digital and I took the Trip. We got excellent shots with both but the Trip proved itself yet again to be ideal for most of what we were taking - shots in perfect sunny conditions like this one of the mountain villiage of Agiassos. It does have its limitations though and, when I wanted to take some shots of the knifemaker in his dimly lit shop in Agiassos, the dreaded red flag popped up. I didn't have a flash attached and it would have spoilt the mood of the shots anyway. So I moved the aperture ring from the "A" setting to f2.8 (wide open) and took a chance. There isn't a lot of latitude on the Fujichrome Sensia 100 transparency film I was using but I was hoping there was enough natural light coming through the doorway at least to capture some highlight detail. The results can be seen below. I think the pictures speak for themselves!
















Note the blurred right hand in the second picture caused by the hand moving during the slow exposure (1/40 second). This actually enhances the shot as does the shallow depth of field caused by the lens being fully open.

The Aperture Ring

These sites are well worth a visit for some clever mods that are possible to provide manual shutter speed control on your Trip:

http://alspix.blog.co.uk/index.php/alspix/2006/02/12/

http://zeropoint.six-something.org/v04/index.php?page=trip_mod

Clever stuff!

The Aperture Ring

There is a lot of confusion amongst new users of the Trip as to the function of the aperture ring. It's quite simple really. You set the aperture ring to "A" for automatic unless you are using the camera with a flashgun.

With the aperture set on "A", light entering the selinium cells around the lens creates sufficient electrical current to operate a coupled light meter that adjusts the shutter speed and aperture. In low light situations, it doesn't operate. In this situation, the shutter speed is set at the slow setting of 1/40 second and the aperture is fully open.

If you are using a flashgun it is necessary to override this and set the correct aperture manually. The required aperture setting will vary depending upon the amount of light the flashgun is able to project on to the subject. Flashguns are supplied with a chart, normally fixed to the unit, that give the correct aperture setting for various distances between the flashgun and the subject - the further away the subject is the wider the aperture. (The widest aperture on the Trip is F2.8).

If anyone is still confused, please feel free to submit question via the Comments link below.

Welcome

Welcome to the new Blog for users of the wonderful Olympus Trip 35. This amazing little camera is a far cry from the digital cameras of today but it a beautiful piece of engineering that can produce professional quality images with beautiful colour tones and ultimate resolution particulary with transparancy film.

The best bit is that you can pick these up for next to nothing in camera shops, car boot sales and ebay - not new of course but there must be some still around unopened in their boxes!

My advice to anyone who appreciates photography, engineering and design should pick one up and give it a try. I get emails from all over the world from people who have done just that and have been amazed by the result. My wife and I have been using one for almost 30 years and during this time we have also owned an OM1n and an OM4 with a large supply of lenses and other equipment, an Olympus Mju 35, a Bronica ETRSi medium format, a Sony Mavica and currently an Olympus Mju and a Nikon Coolpix 5400 digitals. All these cameras have their place but the one that's been used most and I would never be without on holiday is the Olympus Trip 35.










Petra, Jordan













This picture was an example of not only the quality of the Trip but the speed at which it can be operated. I was part of a group of tourists and when this view appeared I knew I had to act quickly before people walked in front of me. The Trip has no batteries - the meter is powered by selinium cells - so it was just a matter of composing and shooting. Also, it's not the easiest of scenes to get a correct exposure. The Trip got it spot on, with just enough shadow detail and perfect highlight exposure. (I haven't done any manipulation on the image other than slight cropping).

I then tried to repeat the shot with my Nikon 5400. By the time it had been switched on, come to life and the shutter delay had played its part in slowing things down, the shot was lost as people had walked past me. The resulting image had excellent shadow detail but washed out highlights. Obviously this could have been corrected using its various manual controls but not easily in this situation.

It could have been luck that the Trip pruduced by far the best shot but if that is the case I have been incredibly lucky over the years!

The Trip can always be ready for a shot. I hold it in one hand with my finger on the shutter when I am anywhere that a shot might appear. The shutter is mechanical but silent and the shot can be taken with no delay, capturing the moment. I have done this countless times and it's one reason why I would not part with the camera. The other practical reason is that there are no batteries to go flat.